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Blantyre is not the world's most exciting town.  The city consists of a small downtown area with some shops, restaurants, and a moderate commercial district (one to two banks) surrounded by suburbs, with a small shopping center located near the hospital.  Hanging around for the weekend is not exactly the most thrilling way to spend your time.  Thankfully, Blantyre is surrounded by great opportunities - there are three mountains that you can climb within 10km of the city proper, and there are no less than 3 game reserves within an hour's drive.  These game preserves are off the main tourist track so when we went to visit Majete Wildlife Reserve we had the park to ourselves - we saw one other car for the 6 hours that we were there.  Combine the ease of access with the low entrance fee ($20 including gas to and from the park) and it's a perfect place to escape from Blantyre.

I didn't expect much from the park - it looked fairly small on the map, but as soon as we drove in my mistake became apparent.  The entrance to the park is next to Kapuchiri Falls, which stopped the famous Dr. Livingstone on his first attempt to travel up the Shire River into Malawi.  On our way up from the falls we had to stop the car suddenly - 5 elephants chose that moment to cross the road and start grazing about 20 feet away from our car.  Violating the first rule of animal safety, I of course got out of the car to take a few pictures (totally worth it) and through dumb luck or the elephants' friendliness I escaped unharmed (although we left the door open in case I should need to sprint back into the car and drive away).

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After spotting the elephants we hit a bit of dry spell (not that I'm complaining) were we saw mostly elands, impalas, and sable until reaching the "Hippo Spot", where, true to it's name, about 10 hippos were basking in the sun and sitting in the river.  We carried on from this point to a loop around the park (thick underbrush does not a good chance to spot animals make) and were surprised by a massive herd of impala (60-80 strong) leaping across the road with four zebra in pursuit.  The impala can jump - their hind legs go above their head and the highest point and it looks like the twisting will either break the back or force them to to tumble down, but they always seemed to land without even breaking stride.

The park was devastated by poaching in the '80s and '90s, but starting in 2006 it has been the focus of an intensive plan to repopulate the park and increase the diversity.  They've successfully imported 75 elephants from Liwonde National Park, and the herd now numbers 150.  There are supposedly 7 rhinos hiding in the park somewhere, but they are rarely seen.  The rangers also plan to introduce lions to the park in 2012, which will be a shock to the complacent population of grazers (I hope all the elands and zebras remember how to run...) but should also bring more visitors to the park.

6/8/2010 12:06:18 am

I love elephants! Really.

I also never realized how many American automobiles (including mine) were named for animals in a small African park.

So, will you be getting out of the car for the lions?

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David
6/8/2010 03:32:24 pm

Thanks James, I'll try to avoid being eaten by lions, but if they seem friendly enough I might go try to pet them. This weekend we're going to a much larger park so I'll try to find more elephants for you.

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8/12/2010 01:16:21 pm

A little pot is soon hot.

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